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Where are the jacking points?
The jacking points are usually under the lower edge of the bodywork, between the front and rear wheels, a few centimetres from each wheel. On many cars there are four: two on each side.
They generally coincide with a reinforced area of the sill, often a welded "rib" of sheet metal, marked by two notches or a small symbol. The head of the car's jack is shaped to take exactly that rib.
How do you recognise the right spot?
You can recognise the right spot by looking for a mark on the sill and checking that it corresponds to a rigid part of the body.
- Notches or cut-outs in the sheet-metal rib, marking out the support area.
- Arrows or triangles moulded into the plastic sill cover, pointing to the spot underneath.
- Rubber or metal pads on some cars with plastic side skirts.
- An illustration in the handbook, in the chapter on changing a wheel.
If you can't find any mark, don't improvise: check the handbook.
Where should you never put the jack?
The jack should never go on parts that aren't designed to carry the vehicle's weight.
- Plastic side skirts and covers.
- The floor pan or general underbody, away from the marked points.
- The oil sump, fuel tank or exhaust.
- Suspension arms or steering parts, unless the manufacturer says so.
- On electric and hybrid cars, near the battery pack: stick strictly to the designated points (see electric cars).
How do you lift the car safely?
To lift the car safely you need firm, level ground, the vehicle braked and the jack perfectly upright.
- Handbrake on, gear engaged or P, engine off, nobody in the car.
- Loosen the wheel bolts before lifting.
- Position the jack under the correct point and raise it by hand until the head touches the body.
- Check that the jack is straight and that its base sits firmly on the ground.
- Lift only as far as needed to get the wheel off the ground.
- Never put your hands, legs or body under a car supported only by the jack.
The full procedure is in how to change a wheel.
SUVs, vans and lowered cars: what's different?
With SUVs, vans and lowered cars, height and weight are the main differences, and the car's own jack may not be ideal.
- SUVs and vans: taller and heavier; the jack must have enough travel and a stable footing. On some models the jacking points are on the chassis or on dedicated brackets (see vans).
- Lowered cars: with a flat tyre the jack may not fit under the body.
- Uneven ground: on gravel, grass or broken tarmac the jack can sink or slip.
In these cases it's safer not to lift the car yourself.
Can't lift the car in Milan?
If in Milan or the surrounding province you can't find the jacking points or don't feel confident, SOS Tyre comes out 24/7, in 30 minutes on average, with the right equipment for your vehicle. Call +39 377 326 0999 or find out about our wheel change service.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use the jack from another car?
Only if it's compatible with your vehicle's weight and the shape of its jacking points. A scissor jack designed for a small hatchback may not be suitable for an SUV. Check the capacity marked on the jack and the type of support the handbook requires.
The jack has damaged the bodywork: is it serious?
A small dent in the sill is common if the jack wasn't centred. If the metal is bent or the paint damaged, it's worth having it checked and protected to prevent rust. If the jack has gone through plastic parts or the floor pan, the point used was the wrong one.
Do I need an axle stand as well as the jack?
For a simple roadside wheel change, normally only the jack is used, without ever getting under the car. But if you need to work under the vehicle, the jack alone isn't enough: proper axle stands are needed, and that's a job for a garage, not the roadside.
Is a bottle jack used at the same points?
Not always. A bottle jack has a small, flat head, suited mainly to the chassis and axles of taller vehicles. On cars with a monocoque body it can damage the sill unless an adaptor is used. Follow the handbook's instructions for the type of jack.